Yesterday I was trying to run a few loads of laundry and the first load that came out of the dryer was fine and the second one I noticed the clothes were still a little wet and damp. This is happened before in my dryer and that time the problem was with these two solenoids. I did a lot of reading on Google and I found that the problem with me was the flame was coming on for about a minute and then it would shut off.
If that happens, it’s these two solenoids right here, those two black, round pieces. So this time it was something different. The flame wasn’t coming on at all, so after I read on Google, I found that it could be any number of different sensors that if they are damaged, they will prevent the flame from coming on and overheating. So I got my multimeter out. You could see my dryer, I couldn’t really open up the back, I could only get into the front compartment and I wasn’t quite ready to resort to calling the guys at Best Appliance Repair (appliancerepairtucsonaz.org).
And it was a little tight getting back in there, but I was able to check the two in the back, and those were fine and then I start checking, there are some on this corner here and that one on the front was fine and then you can see that opening; in that opening was a fuse and it looked like this and that ended up being the problem. I put the positive and negative leads on either side of these two terminals and there is no change, which meant the fuse was broken.
Apparently this is a one time fuse, once it blows, that’s it and the downside is it’s a twelve bucks, this is the cheapest I could find. At the department store by my house it was seventeen. I can show you what it looks like to have a working and a non-working sensors. The way you do that is you set it to the ohm scale at around two hundred K and you take your two sensors in here and when I touch it to positive and negative, there is absolutely no change.
There should normally go down to zero, if I touch the negative lead in here, see how it drops to zero? But when I do it through the fuse, there is no change. That means it’s broken. And I did the same thing, like I said, with all the other parts in there, and they all read fine. The way I really knew that that part was broken was, I took the two wires that normally connected to that fuse and I twisted them together with some electrical tape.
Right after I connected those wires, I turned the dryer on and the flame came on and it run fine. Now I definitely wasn’t going to run the dryer without that fuse on there, but it was just a test to see that was definitely the broken part. So I went ahead and ordered the part and it’s going to take a couple of weeks, but until them I actually have an old dryer in the garage and I am going to see if this is the same fuse that’s in there. So in the meantime, I am going to take it out of the dryer and put it in here and see if it works.
Here I am in my garage and the dryer I have in the basement is a Kenmore Elite and this one here is a Whirlpool and it turns out, this is actually a lot easier to work on. You could see on this dryer, the whole back plate comes out and it’s much easier to get to all these different sensors. The bad news is the sensor that I needed is not the same. You could see this sensor has a different fitting. I think it’s the same on the inside, but it won’t mount to the same hole, so I can’s switch that over.
Even though I can’t switch that sensor out, I can still show you what a working sensor should look like and I’ll try to do this one-handed. Like I said, you set your multimeter to ohms, on two hundred K. So I have the two sensors on either side of that fuse and you can see that it’s at zero. And if I take it off, it goes back up to one. That means that that sensor or that fuse is good. If the one in the basement that I tried, it stayed on one, which meant the fuse was blown and if it’s not the fuse, you could check all these other different sensors on here.
For me it was the fuse in the basement and unfortunately I can not switch it out with this fuse, so I am just going to have to wait until that part gets shipped and switch it out. But it wasn’t that complicated, there’s not a whole lot back here as you can see and this dryer is definitely easier to work on, the Whirlpool is easier than the Kenmore that I have in my basement, is much easier to get to, taking this whole back panel off. But like I said, if it’s a problem with your dryer where the flame is coming on, but it’s not staying on, it’s probably those two solenoids.
For three or four bucks you can get the solenoids, there are cheap fix, you just pop the other ones off and put the new ones on and that flame should stay on. But if it’s a problem where the flame isn’t coming on at all, it’s probably one of your sensors or that fuse. And with a dryer like this, you could go through with your multimeter, check each one of these for continuity, when you touch two sides, it should go down to zero and work your way down.
Like I said, he dryer in the basement, it was this fuse that was the problem. I put the two positive and negative terminals there and nothing happened. It should go down to zero. Instead of calling someone to come fix it, give it a try with your multimeter, check all those sensors and you could probably fix it yourself for a lot less.